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Route
On the map below you can
check out the route which took us from Düsseldorf,
Germany to Basel, Switzerland
Itinerary:
| Day 1 |
Sat |
14.08.09 |
Düsseldorf |
Köln |
53
km
|
| Day 2 |
Sun |
15.08.09 |
Köln |
Bonn |
44
km |
| Day 3 |
Mon |
16.08.09 |
Bonn |
Koblenz |
78
km
|
| Day 4 |
Tue |
17.08.09 |
Koblenz |
Cochem |
58
km
|
| Day
5 |
Wed |
18.08.09 |
Cochem |
Oberwesel |
63
km
|
| Day 6 |
Thu |
19.08.09 |
Oberwesel
|
Mainz |
56
km
|
| Day 7 |
Fri |
20.08.09 |
Mainz |
Heidelberg |
101
km
|
| Day 8 |
Sat |
21.08.09 |
Heidelberg |
Karlsruhe |
65
km
|
| Day 9 |
Sun |
22.08.09 |
Karlsruhe |
Strasbourg |
81
km
|
| Day 10 |
Mon |
23.08.09 |
Strasbourg |
Biesheim |
79
km
|
| Day 11 |
Tue |
24.08.09 |
Biesheim |
Basel |
67
km
|
Total of 745 km in 11
days (average of 68 km per day)
Places that we visited
along our route:
Düsseldorf
The capital city
of the German state of Northrhine-Westfalia, Düsseldorf is both a
trendy fashion city with exensive shoping boulevards and a large trade
fair and at the same time a laid-back boheme place full of beautiful
parks, Rhine beaches and of course the famous Altstadt (old city). The
Altstadt, also called "the world's longest bar" due to the density of
pubs and microbreweries was home to the famous German Jewish poet
Heinrich Heine, who plays an important role in the cultural life of
Düsseldorf until today. As for the culinary specialties, besides
the famours Currywurst and the typical Altbier which is produced here,
Düsseldorf is also the city with the largest Japanese population
in Europe, so the sushi scene is spectacular. Together with Köln
and Mainz, it is one of three centres of the German Karneval - a
festival of fun and merriment, where the entire city dresses up in
costumes and sings Karneval songs. The tour begian in front of the
Landtag - the parliament of Northrhine-Westfalia and passed through
some of the many parks
and avenues of the city...
|
|
|
Benrath
One of the first
stops of our tour was the historic town of Benrath, now the
capital's southernmost suburb. Located right alongside the
Rhine river, it is also called the Versailles of Düsseldorf, since
the summer residency of the von Berg dynasty is located here. It is
famous for its pink baroque style and its voluptuous pleasure
park. Once a year, the town is host to the
amazing musical fireworks and throughout the year it is a favorite
amongst city-dwellers for a day in the countryside. Benrath is also
known for the Benrath line, the imaginary boundary separating the high
German dialect of the South and East from the low German dialect in the
North and far West. We passed into the town from the Rhine shore,
through the palatial parks and continued down towards the Rhine
ferry, which took us across to the other shore...
|
Zons
Just across the
river from Benrath is the old toll station of Zons. With its heavy
fortifications, its ancient spires and thick walls, it was once an
important outpost of the Archbishopry in Cologne, collecting levies
from the trading ships on the Rhine and guarding the river from hostile
fleets. It has since grown into a small town, with bustling
markets, old cobblestone streets, tree-shaded squares and a gorgeous
old windwill for a self-supply of flour in times of siege. As we
crossed
the river with the Rhine ferry, we pushed our bikes through the
narrow lanes of the walled town and stopped for a break on
Swine Square - knownfor its memorial of the infamous Swine War between
the Archbishop of Cologne and the swineherders of Zons. Leaving the
town behind us, we continued on towards
the Cologne city limits, passing the Fühlinger Lake where stopped
for a quick dip in the water and some refreshments.
|
|
|
Köln
The mighty city of
Köln (or Colonia, Cologne or even Keulen) has seen more centuries
go by than almost any other place in Germany. Originally founded by
Roman Empress Agrippina (the mother of Nero) in 50 AD, the town grew
into Germany's largest and most important city during the Middle Ages,
largely due to its important role for the Catholic Church. Its dome
supposedly houses the remains of the three wise kings of the Bible and
its mighty walls withheld many
wars and battles throughout its history before they were finally torn
down by Napoleon. Modern day Köln has risen from its near
total destruction at the end of World War II and is today Germany's
fourth largest city. It is also the undisputed
capital of the Karneval with more than a million people pouring into
the city's streets every year to celebrate the merry season. The city prides itself of
its laissez-fair culture and is known as Germany's most tolerant city,
with a vast array of ethnicities forming a truly multiculutral scene,
the largest Turkish community in Germany and the titel of gay capital
of Germany. Culinary highlights include the famous Kölsch beer,
the heavy Himmel un Ähd as well as Flönz and Rievkooche. We
had a barbeque near the Aachener Weiher - a favorite spot for Cologne's
bustling student scene.
|
Bonn
From Köln we
continued down the Rhine towards the former West German capital of
Bonn.
Besides the remains of the Bonn Republic, such as the modern Bundestag
(federal parliament), the understated chancellor's bungalow and the
Langer Johann skyscraper, Bonn is also the home city of famous composer
Beethoven and hosts one of Germany's most beautiful old universities.
Little can be seen today of its humble beginnings as a Roman garrison
town, but a few old cobblestones still speak of the city's ancient
history. Another highlight of this delightful little town is the German
Historical Museum, showcasing 2000 years of cultural history. The next
day, we drove south, past the Bundestag and the beautiful Rheinauen
park. Chestnut lined avenues and the
tree-shaded Biergärten (beer gardens) usually make for a nice
summer
day in the city, but not in the rain... we continued our journey along
the Rhine, opposite of
the Siebengebirge with its hilltop castles, such as Drachenfels.
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Koblenz
Another old Roman
town, Koblenz, or "Confluentes" as it was originally called, is
strategically located at the confluence of the Rhine and the Mosel
rivers. As both are famous for the grapes harvested on their shores, it
is no wonder that Koblenz is a major center of wine production and
consumation. The tip of land between the two rivers is also known as
the "Deutsche Eck" or German corner and is one of West Germany's most
famous landmarks. The view of the mighty fortress Ehrenbreitstein
opposite the river is a reminder of the times when Koblenz was ruled by
revolutionary France at the end of the 18th century. It's also a very
green and relaxed place to enjoy some typical Döppekooche with
some Rhine Wine to make the culinary
experience perfect. At Koblenz, we turned away from the Rhine and
passed through the wooden Maifeld region, part of the hilly outskirts
of
the Eifel Mountains.
|
Büchel
After a day of
biking alongside the romantic Mosel river with its vineyards and
hilltop castles, we reached the US air base at Büchel.
Following World War II, the US opened many airfields in Western Europe,
some of which contained nuclear missiles. After the mass removal of US
military presence from West Germany following Reunification in the
1990's and the recent removal of nuclear missiles from Ramstein
airbase, Büchel has the infamous legacy of being the only nuclear
weapons site left in Germany. We were able to hold a small Target X
outside its fence.
|
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Cochem
Just a few
kilometers form the Büchel airfield, this is where spent the
night after visiting the base. The city of Cochem lies at the heart of
the Mosel wine region and is a natural place for tasting the wonderful
whites and reds of the region. The more than 800 year old Reichsburg
overlooking the picturesque town serves as a perfect spot for an
evening outing and a place to watch the sunset over the Mosel river. A
worthy place to relax after some tough biking through the countryside
and to regain energy before making the journey back towards the Rhine
on the following day...
|
Oberwesel
Returning over the
Hunsrück mountains to the
Rhine, we first reached the small town
of Boppard, known for its yearly fireworks display "Rhine in Flames"
and for its proximity to some of the Rhine's most beautiful curves.
There's the historic Roman walls and remnants of its time as frontier
town between the Roman Empire and the Germanic barbarians across the
river. From there, we pased the famous Loreley precipice - a giant rock
protruding into one of the most dangerous meanderings of the Rhine
river and, according to local legend, the home of the fairy (Ley) Lore,
who sang so beautifully that sailors did not watch the cliffs and
crashed into the rock below. From there we continued into the old
fortified town of Oberwesel, where we were welcomed by the Loreley
Clinic, who had arranged an evening of culture and culinary delights
for us.
|
|
|
Mainz
After a ferry ride
from Bingen to Rüdesheim and some nice
cycling through the Rheingau, we reached the capital of
Rhineland-Palatinate, the city of Mainz. Famous for its red
sandstone dome of St Martin in the centre of the historic old city,
Mainz
was the home of Gutenberg, who first promoted movable type
writing and thereby a literary revolution that preceded the Renaissance
and Reformation movements. The Gutenberg University, a large museum and
modern art in the city centre still speak of his legacy for the city.
Mainz is also one of the three capitals of the German Karneval and
houses major media companies such as the ZDF. As Köln has its
fairy tales Heinzelmännchen, small gnomes who played mischief on
the citizens but also did their chores for them while they slept, Mainz
has the corresponding Mainzelmännchen in its local lore. With its
history as first democratic capital on German ground - the Mainz
Republic being a French vassal state after the French Revolution, Mainz
is a
fascinating city to visit and a good place to enjoy some "Mainzer
Handkäs mit Musik" - the local cheese served with oil, vinegar and
onions...
|
Worms
As we made our way
from Mainz towards Heidelberg, we had a chance to pass by the ancient
Keltic city of Worms - perhaps the oldest of Germany. It was here,
under the shadows of the Romanic Kaiser-Dome, that Martin Luther stood
his grounds against the Roman catholic church and the Holy Roman Empire
at the Wormser Reichstag in 1521. Worms continued to play an important
role in the Reformation. It was here that William Tyndale printed the
first New Testament in the English language in 1526. The city is also
famous for its role in the Germanic saga of the Nibelunglied, where it
was the seat of the kings of Burgundy. Its shady Biergarten by the
Rhine bridge made for a nice stop on the
way to Heidelberg, as we make our way through the region of Rheinhessen.
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Heidelberg
Perhaps the most
romantic and best-preserved old city of Germany, Heidelberg has
attracted foreign visitory for hundreds of years. Its location on the
Neckar river, the gleaming palace on the hillside and the historic old
bridge served as remarkable backdrops
for many famous novels and poems. Mark Twain visited the city in 1878
and wrote of his strange and funny encounters in "A Tramp abroad".
Today, Heidelberg is famous for its renowned university and sometimes
called the Harvard of Germany. It is, in fact, the oldest university in
Germany. The city has a vibrant youth and student culture and present
itself to us from its best side, as the local IPPNW groups made us feel
right at home here.
|
Philippsburg
On our way from
Heidelbrg to Karlsruhe, we passed the nuclear power plant at
Philippsburg, one of Germany's 17 remaining atomic power stations. In
2002, the red-green coalition agreed to shut down all nuclear power
plants by 2021. Two have already gone off-line and more are scheduled
to stop working in the coming years. The current government coalition
has vowed to let the nuclear plants run longer than initially
recommended and agreed upon. There is a raving debate on the nuclear
policy going on in Germany right now and we will got a glimpse into the
controversyby meeting experts from a local anti-nuclear group.
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Karlsruhe
The residential
city of the counts of Baden was constructed in the 18th century with
the striking palace in the middle and the streets eminating from it
like rays of sunlight. Its name literalls means "Karl's rest", as count
Karl of Baden intended for it to be his capital city. It has
remained a residential city, but for other reasons. Nowadays, it houses
the German Federal Constitutional Court and the German Federal Court of
Justice and dubs itself the Germany City of Justice; it has even turned
one of
its marketplaces into the "Square of Fundamental Rights". It is in
Karlsruhe that many important decisions have been made which have
shaped and influenced the modern German state and it is here that
people can turn if they feel that their rights have been infringed
upon. Karlsruhe is also the founding city of the German Green Party,
which has played an important role in recent political history and has
become the second biggest party in the city council with more than 20%
of the total vote. From Karlsruhe it was only a mere 28 km to the
French
border...
|
Strasbourg
Having passed into
France after crossing the Rhine River, we cycled through small
villages in the German-French border region of Alsace, straight into
the
capital city of Strasbourg. After being annexed, conquered and
re-conquered by France and Germany several times over the past few
centuries, this beautiful city of canals, churches and stone bridges
has turned into a truly European city. With a vast number of students
from all over Europe flocking into its lecture halls, bars and Bierstub
(beer
cellars) and several key European institutions such as the Council of
Europe, the European Parliament and the European Court of Human
Rights situated in Strasbourg, there probably isn't a European language
that you won't be hearing during your visit. One of the regions most
famous sons, Albert Schweitzer, studied, taught and worked in
Strasbourg, before he moved to Africa, where he founded a free clinic
and campaigned against nuclear weapons. It is in his footsteps that we
will walk in Strasbourg and it is his legacy that we will continue to
promote peace.
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Biesheim
From Strasboug, we
cycle further south to the small town of Biesheim. Though not
famous for anything much, it is located close to Neuf-Briesach, a
military stronghold of famous French general Vauban and it has a
campsite, located on the tip of an island in the Rhine - right between
France and Germany.
|
Basel
We met up with
the Rhine river again in the city of Basel. The third biggest city of
Switzerland is also its most international - with parts of the cities
suburbs actually lying on German and French territory. The old Roman
garrison of Basileam became an Alemanni stronghold and was later
incorporated into the Holy Roman Empire. Completely destroyed in 1356
by the largest earthquake Central Europe has ever seen, Basel rose
from the ashes and joined the Helvetian Confederacy in 1501. It has
remained one of the country's most important cities and is nowadays
a major hub for pharmaceutical companies like Novartis and Hoffmann-La
Roche as well as Banks such as UBS. The city is laid out along the
Rhine and embraces it like no other town along its shores: several
beautiful bridges cross the river, there are permanent ferry services
and dozens of tiny boats criss-crossing the river at any given time of
the day, while the young people of Basel hang out on the shores and the
rich dine in the stylish cafés and restaurant along the
riverside. As we arrived in Basel, we were met by the Swiss affiliate
and the World Congress Organizers before ending our tour on Basel's
Rathausplatz
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